Building Aftercare
Building Aftercare
Once your lovely new garden building has been installed, it is very important that you correctly care for them to ensure that you are able to utilise and enjoy your new outdoor space for many years to come.
We strongly advise all customers to thoroughly read and adhere to all aftercare advise within this booklet.
Weather/Waterproofing
Due to the fact that timber is largely fast grown to keep up with demand, the natural grain of the timber is very porous, and your garden building is no exception. This is why it is essential and of the upmost importance that all outdoor timber buildings are sufficiently weatherproofed to best protect the timber cladding.
All timber we use is tanalised, pressure treated. This treatment is chemically impregnated into the timber in a treatment tank and protects the timber against wood rot or insect attack. TANALISING TREATMENT DOES NOT WATERPROOF THE TIMBER. It carries a 10-year guarantee against rot ONLY.
It is the customers responsibility to weatherproof the timber, and this must be done as soon as possible after installation with a minimum of 3-4 coats of an oil/solvent based wood protector/water repellent (DECKING OIL IS NOT SUITABLE).
Any less than recommended will not protect the building. We do not recommend water-based stains, we only advise water based products if they are a thicker paint, and further coats may be required to be satisfactory.
DO NOT USE A WOOD PRESERVER, these are only suitable as an anti- fungal treatment, they do not water seal timber, it must be a WOOD PROTECTOR that is used.
We recommend the following products;
• Barrettine Wood Protector (Min 3 coats with 48 hours drying time between each coat)
• Hickson’s Décor Wax Coat (Min 2-3 coats with 24 hours drying time between each coat)
• Protek Timber Eco Shield (Min 3 coats with 12 hours drying time between each coat)
• Protek Royal Exterior Paint (Min 2-3 coats with 12 hours drying time between each coat)
Treatment must be applied correctly and must be thoroughly worked into all joins, corners, nail holes and end grain. Timber doors and windows must also be thoroughly treated inside and out and to the underneath.
In persistent heavy down pour, water can still saturate through single skinned timber buildings, and it is normal to expect some level of water ingress as pictured below;
If you are experiencing larger amounts of water ingress as pictured below;
the product you have applied is either not suitable or has an insufficient coating, you will need to apply further coats to prevent this amount of ingress.
This is not a manufacturing fault and is due to timbers natural porosity, we recommend if this occurs to ventilate your building opening any doors/windows to allow it to dry out and to re-treat the exterior as needed.
During the wetter, winter months we appreciate in can be more difficult to seal the exterior timber due to the weather conditions, during this time if the building is untreated, you will experience water saturation/ingress. This will not have any detrimental effect on the tanalised timber and will dry out over time.
We highly recommend that all timber buildings are raised off the ground by bearers or a frame especially if your ground/base is larger than the external floor of the building. This is to prevent splashback from the roof bouncing back up at the bottom boards/under the floor of the building.
Keighley Timber & Fencing Ltd cannot guarantee your building to be 100% waterproof due to its placement and the elements driving at it, however following all recommendations within this aftercare booklet will help to alleviate this from occurring.
Guttering
We highly recommend that guttering is fitted to all timber buildings, but especially those that are close to any boundary walls/fences or vegetation. Water can become trapped within these tighter spaces/bounce off surroundings as it has no where else to go and as a result can soak through the timber of your building.
In our experience guttering pro longs the life of a building immensely stopping rainwater runoff blowing on to/bouncing back up at the shed walls and soaking the cladding. Gutters help to direct rain fall away from the building which helps to keep the building drier.
Doors & Windows
All glass fitted within our buildings is tacked and silicone sealed from the inside as standard,
WE DO NOT INTERNALLY BEAD ANY TIMBER DOORS OR WINDOWS.
Silicone seals can breakdown over time and during extreme or heavy rain can still allow water to penetrate through, we advise all seals are checked regularly or after any bad weather.
Glass will need to be re-sealed annually to best prevent any water ingress, so we recommend you keep a tube of sealant handy for this.
There may be some swelling generally in winter, or shrinkage in summer, we do not recommend plaining the edges of doors or windows as over time the building should return to its manufactured size. Doors can sometimes require slight adjustments to the hinges, however.
Door Kick Out
Doors may kick out if both turn buttons are not used. When the building is not in use you must ensure both turn buttons are across the doors to prevent this from occurring. If they have kicked out, push the door in and turn the buttons (this may need a little force to start with but will train the timber back to original position). This can take a little time.
We also advise all ironmongery is lubricated/oiled regularly to help with opening/closing and to provide longer life and fresh appearance.
Roof Care
We use 3 different types of roofing materials:
Standard Shed Felt – This is a standard mineral finished shed felt and this product carries NO WARRANTY.
It is entirely the customers responsibility to maintain and repair this product as needed. Standard shed felt can last for many years, provided it is checked regularly and maintained.
Heavy Duty Poly Felt – Poly felt has a mineral finish on top but a polyester backing which provides the felt with more durability than that of standard felt.
This product carries a 12 MONTH WARRANTY ONLY from date of installation. After this 12-month period expires, it is the customers responsibility to maintain and repair the felt as needed.
EPDM Rubber Roof – Rubber roofs carry a 20-year guarantee and require very little to no maintenance. As a rubber roof is fitted in one entire sheet, there are no joins that need to be sealed which gives the product a much longer life span than that of shed felt.
You may experience slight movement/wrinkling in the felt once fitted, this is not a fitting fault, this is due to atmospheric conditions and will settle down over time.
IF YOU ARE PLANNING TO INSULATE/INTERNALLY CLAD OR FIT ANY ELECTRICS TO YOUR BUILDING, WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU HAVE A RUBBER ROOF FITTED.
This is a company recommendation and is advised due to how easily weather conditions/elements can affect the integrity of shed felt.
YOU MUST REGULARLY CHECK YOUR FELT AFTER ANY HEAVY RAIN/HIGH WINDS OR INCLEMENT WEATHER FOR ANY DEBRIS THAT COULD DAMAGE THE FELT IF LEFT. ENSURE THERE ARE NO OVERHANGING BUSHES, BRAMBLES OR TREES ETC AND IF SO, THESE NEED TO BE CUT BACK/PRUNED REGULARLY AS THESE CAN CAUSE TEARS/SPLITS AND WILL VOID ANY WARRANTY GIVEN. YOU MUST ALSO CHECK FOR ANY BIRD DROPPINGS AND REMOVE THEM AS SOON AS POSSIBLE AS THE ACIDIC RESIDUE CAN EVENTUALLY ERODE ROOFING MATERIALS.
In high winds and heavy rain, felt nails can lift/pop out, these can simply be nailed back in to place and we also advise re sealing any felt joins with a bitumen spray/paint as needed.
Condensation/Mould
If you have moisture within your building, this is perfectly normal if the building is not adequately weatherproofed and sealed/aired correctly.
Your building is manufactured from pressure treated timber, which consists of a large amount of treatment/moisture being forced into the timber. Your building needs to be aired to allow moisture to escape; not airing correctly can cause condensation.
If your garden building is erected in damp inclement conditions, you MUST ensure that you leave adequate ventilation for the sectional, single skinned building to dry. If you fail to do so condensation will occur. This will produce drips or runs of water inside the building which may be mistaken for leaks. Condensation will also build up on the inside of the windows and on the roof underside. Please do not block any air/ventilation gaps within your building, these are here for a specific purpose and help the building to dry out and for moisture to escape.
Condensation is a natural occurrence due to changes/drops in temperature, the only way to alleviate a build up within your building is to ensure you regularly air your building by opening any doors/windows ESPECIALLY IN THE WINTER MONTHS. If you do not use the building/air it for several weeks-months during the winter period, condensation will become trapped within the building.
Excess moisture if not prevented/dealt with can eventually lead to mould. We recommend the following 6 tips to prevent mould in your building;
1. Ventilate your building – periodically open doors and windows in dry weather. (This is crucial during the winter months).
2. Anything you store in the building must be dry – Do not store any wet wellies, bikes or equipment in your building. Allow them to dry out or wipe them off with a dry towel etc first.
3. Moisture absorbers or Dehumidifiers – these are always beneficial to have in your building especially if you use your building as a workspace.
4. Keep perishables off your building floor – Things such as paper, cardboard and material. Light moisture passes through timber and these items absorb and hold any moisture, meaning they can stay damp which in turn keeps damp within your building.
5. Insulate your building – Single skinned buildings will always be more susceptible to moisture than that of an insulated building. Insulation can help regulate temperatures in your shed to minimise moisture build up. However, it is extremely important this is fitted correctly to ensure breathability otherwise you could end up trapping moisture.
6. Regularly check around your building – Remove any debris that may be trapped around/underneath the building and keep the area free from weeds or tall grass, these can conduct moisture to the wall panels. We do not recommend adding things to the outside of your building such as trellis etc as this can cause localised damp spots.
If you do experience any mould/mildew build up to the exterior/interior of your building, don’t panic. Mould will not cause a tanalised building to rot and there are many treatments available that can help you to remove this. You will need a proprietary brand of mould remover which contains mildewcide to effectively remove any mould.
Natural Timber Characteristics
Timber is subject to natural imperfections; these do not affect the integrity of your product. To help you get the most out of our products its useful to know a little more about the properties of timber, what’s normal and how your product may behave as the seasons change.
Wood is an extremely durable material for construction but as a natural product when used outdoors it is susceptible to changes in the environment. Depending on the type of product you have and the style of construction, extreme weather conditions may cause reactions in the timber.
Movement, Twisting and Warping – Wood contains a natural level of moisture so decreasing humidity levels in the surrounding air may cause panels to change their shape as the porous fibres shrink. This can be exaggerated during prolonged periods of dry weather. Similarly, in the winter months, the opposite may occur with the wood swelling. Movement and gaps in timber products are normal – Tongue and Groove constructions are more stable as the cladding is interlocking but in hot weather, you may still see some shrinkage. In most cases of warping, the wood will revert to its original form once the high temperatures subside and there is more moisture content in the air.
Expansion, Contraction, Splits and Cracks – All timber will expand and contract according to its environment. As a result of this expansion and contraction, it is very common to see splits and cracks developing in the wood – including posts and uprights. Splits are common during the Spring and Summer months as the wood begins to dry out. The outer surface dries first and contracts, contracting over a still expanded core of the wood. These splits are not a fault and do not affect the structural integrity of a product. They are simply a part of how the timber responds to its environment and will usually close over time.
Timber Variation (e.g Knots/Knot holes) – It is completely natural to see some knots within timber, a knot is formed where a branch attached to a trunk. Knots can sometimes fall out when the timber dries/shrinks. These can be easily filled in with an all-purpose wood filler. These are not a cause for concern and in no way do they affect the quality of the product.
Mould – Mould is a surface-dwelling fungus that feeds on nutrients and debris contained in the surface cells of timber. The most common problem associated with mould is discolouration of the timber and an increase in permeability of the timber, Mould DOES NOT cause the timber to rot. (Please see Condensation/Mould section on how best to prevent/treat mould).
Blue Stain – Blue stain is part of the same family as moulds but penetrates deeper into the surface layers of the timber. It stains the timber a dark blue colour, whereas mould is usually black. The best way to differentiate between the two is to rub your finger over the affected area. Mould will be visible on your finger whereas Blue stain wont due to its penetration of the deeper surface layers. Preventative and remedial measures are the same as the measures used for mould.
Wood Colouration – Pressure Treated wood colouration varies depending on the timber species and length of time from treatment, the colour will fade over time to an attractive silver/brown. You may have some Pressure Treatment residue, in the form of green spotting or marks. These are normal and do not affect the quality of the product. The residue will dissipate over time.
Top Tips/Annual Checks
• Treat your building as soon as possible after installation with a minimum 3-4 coats of a sufficient, wood protector with an adequate water repellent and annually thereafter.
• Fit guttering and a simple downpipe to your building.
• Check joins and corners for damp and if found ensure better treatment from the outside. We recommend re- sealing corners etc regularly to prevent any water ingress through the end grain of the timber.
• Ensure there is nothing under your building preventing ventilation or possibly causing damp.
• Check the roof covering is secure, clear of leaves and debris, is properly fixed and repair any wear and tear.
• Check Silicone/Re-seal all doors and windows annually or after any bad weather.
• Oil all ironmongery – check for any damage and repair as necessary.
Prune any overhanging trees and shrubs regularly to avoid abrasion to the roofing and walls. Should any damage be visible this should be rectified at your earliest opportunity.
• The doors of your building should be treated on the outside, inside, top and bottom grains and hinge and lock side.
• Regularly air you building – EVEN IN WINTER.